...In the past year or so, the industry has been paying particular attention to the question of diversity: the lack of it on the runway, as well as behind the scenes. Glamour magazine was confronted with angry calls and e-mails after a white staff member -- since departed -- speaking on behalf of the publication, voiced her disapproval of Afros in the workplace during a presentation at a law firm.
In response, the magazine hosted several panel discussions bringing together a variety of viewpoints on the subjects of race, beauty and friendships across ethnic lines. This spring, members of the New York fashion community raised concerns because black models had been banished from the runway thanks to the prevailing preference for an Eastern European aesthetic. In July, American Vogue ran an article discussing diversity in the industry and also featured several black models in fashion spreads. And then there was Italian Vogue. The July edition of the magazine was called "A Black Issue" and all the editorial pages, as well as the cover, featured black models.
The special issue of Italian Vogue caused the largest stir in part because it was an Italian magazine and the Italian runways have not, in recent memory, been emblematic of the kind of joyful ethnic diversity that one might find in a Benetton advertisement. But it was also significant because Italian Vogue has a reputation for devotion to aesthetics above all else. It is not interested in depicting the more practical, realistic elements of the fashion industry. It is unconcerned with being commercial. Its philosophy revolves around the high concept. Other, more commercial magazines might not go where it leads, but Italian Vogue provides inspiration.
